TUTORIAL - Adding Flat Piping to Lingerie Using Silk Bias Strips

Adding a bit of flat piping to lingerie can really make the lace details pop! Not only is flat piping faster and easier to sew, but it also lighter weight and sits flatter - making it ideal of lingerie. Like regular piping, flat piping is added as an accent and applied in between the seams.

This silk charmeuse from Fabric Wholesale Direct was perfect the job. At 25 mommes, it is a great weight to cut and sew without being too slippery and fed through the machine easily. No odd puckering and no fighting ripples every 2 stitches.

Check out the Akeru Sew Along for details on how to make both the wireless and wired versions.

Lets get started!

STEP 1 - Start by cutting bias strips that is 4x the width you need. In this case, we used 1” strips for a 1/4” finished width with 1/4” seam allowance. For short lengths of bias strip, simply laying down a ruler on top of the fabric at 45 degrees and running a rotary cutter next to it makes quick work of the fabric. If longer lengths of bias strips are need, try this continuous bias strip method.

The silk is a nice enough weight where basting and ironing wasn’t needed here but if you are working with a lighter or slippery fabric and/or working with these types of fabric for the first time, take the time to iron and baste before use.

STEP 2 - Once the bias tape is ready to go, its time to baste the strip(s) on to the fabric. To make this easier, lay out the fabric pieces so all the joining seams are next to each other. They place one strip at each seam. Check that the seam allowances of the bias strip and fabric are even - trim any areas where the strip sticks out as necessary to ensure the seam allowances on the main fabric is consistent and smooth. DO NOT reduce or change the seam allowance width in any way. This is particularly important and lingerie typically only has a 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance and uneven seam allowances while piecing may result in odd puckers or wrinkles.

STEP 3 - Once all the strips are basted on, sew the rest of the garment as usual.

Also wanted to share this timely version of the Mysa bralette made out of rayon Ponte De Roma also from FWD. This fabric is a favorite for a few reasons. Its a double knit with a bit of spandex mixed in - that means no rolling! While most Ponte De Roma is made of polyester, this version is mostly rayon making it softer against the skin while the 30% stretch means is a wonderful match for bralettes as well.

Mysa bra pattern made of rayon Ponte De Roma fabric from FWD.

Disclaimer:  I was given the opportunity to receive a product in exchange for this post.  However, this testimony to the quality of the product and my experience with using the product is all my own.