Consider Making Your Own Bra!

If you've ever spent hours at a store trying on dozens of bras only walk out with empty handed or settled for the least ill fitting thing the store offered, you may have wondered if custom bras were an option.

While custom bras ARE available, some people prefer to make their own.  After all, no one will be as invested in the final result than you!

This is 4 part series that walks a new potential bra maker through general bra making topics not covered by a sewing pattern or a construction video.

Part 1 - Cost, Time, Need and Difficulty

Part 2 - Breast Anatomy in Relation to Bra Fit

Part 3 - Choose a Bra Pattern

Part 4 - Alterations/Additions to Consider

For those who contemplated making their own bra, they may have come across MANY people (blogs and websites) claiming how difficult it is to sew your own bra.  In this post, we'll talk about some things to consider such as cost effectiveness, time, need and difficulty.  In short, it all comes down to perspective. 

Cost

The ultimate cost of making  bras largely depends on what materials one uses.  As a beginner bra sewer, most recommend using cheap fabrics as the first few attempts will likely not fit perfectly.  This can be accomplished a few different ways: 

• Recycled materials (parts from old bras, fabric from old slips/nightgowns, etc from your closet or the thrift store)

• Free bra patterns - great way practice working with elastic if your sewing skills are non-existent or a bit rusty

• Purchasing materials in bulk - buying 10 yards of elastic will be cheaper (per yard) than buying 2. This is a great option if you wear alot of black, white or nude (or just like to coordinate with those colors).

Your initial cost would depend on if you purchased a pattern (perhaps there was one you absolutely loved but had a price tag attached), how much bra making materials you needed to purchase (elastics, fabrics, etc) or if you just bought a bra making kit.  A quick word on the kits - while they are often masterfully coordinated and so so convenient, your first bra will likely not fit.  Most would caution to save the beautiful kits for when you worked out the fitting kinks in your bra making repertoire.  In general, larger cups need more fabric thus would need to pay a bit more and vice versa for those with smaller cups. Those who are particularly endowed may need to double up on the fabrics to get the proper support.

My very first me-made bra utilized a free pattern, recycled hardware (rings and sliders, etc), bulk purchased elastics and specialized bra fabrics + random trim from my stash.  It cost me a grand total of $10 for that bra (total expenditure was more).  It wasn't beautiful nor was it ugly - very utilitarian with uneven stitches and patches of color.  I learned ALOT and still wear that bra from time to time.

One more aspect of cost (and bra making in general) that isn't always covered. Using a fitting band and/or making a bra toile. [link HERE for toile and HERE for fitting band]  A toile (or muslin) is essentially a quick and dirty mock up you make with cheap materials to assess general fit.  A bra toile may have the cups, bridge, band, straps and hook/eye basted together (and wires slide in) - without any elastics. While pretty quick (and possibly use "real materials" as it is just basted together), I found this seems to work best for those who are still self supporting as the band (without the elastics) provide very little support.  A fitting band is a regular bra with all pieces (bridge, band, elastics, hook/eye, and underwire) but NO CUPS.  This is an EXCELLENT method for those with omega shaped breasts as it ensures the wires, bridge and band all fit before tacking the task of finding the right cups.  You can pretty quickly and easily baste cups on to the fitting band and remove it just as easily.  With the fitting band, you are able to fit multiple cups (with their respective alterations) in a short amount of time.  It is so good that I would recommend it to all home bra makers.  Making the fitting band will also add to the grand total.

Time

One of the beauties of making your own bra is that you can work on it when you have time.  Sometimes that means during the kid's nap time, a rare day off or while the rest of the family is watching <Enter Movie Name Here> for the umpteenth time.  Also, smaller patterns mean it takes less time to cut everything out and less space needed at your sewing station (or the 18" in front of your computer monitor you call your sewing space).

As for the all important question - How long will it take to make a bra that fits? It depends.  A skilled sewer in a factory setting can put one together in 3-4 hrs.  Doubling that number is a good place to start for a beginner with some sewing exp.  This only addresses the actual sewing and not the time it takes to alter patterns or cut out the pattern pieces.  For MOST women, some alterations to a bra pattern will be required.  This is typical and expected.  How MANY changes one needs depends on the individual.  One theory is that the more bra sewing (and fit) knowledge one has, the more changes one needs.  Essentially, the more you learn, the higher your standards for fit are.  Another theory is that it depends on what the person was wearing before embarking on the bra making journey.  If a person wore VERY ill fitting bras prior, they may be thrilled about a bra that MOSTLY fits.  If a person wore a slightly ill fitting bra prior, they may be more exacting about fit.  The former person could have a bra that fits in 3 tries, the latter may be closer to 8 tries.

Here's a great personal example of the first theory.  When I completed my first bra, I was elated that it fit!  A few bras later, I realized a few mistakes I had made in that first go around.  Now, I can provide a laundry list of things that could be improved on that same bra.

Need 

The greater the need, the more likely one will persevere.  Like any other new skill, there will be ups and downs in bra making.  Sometimes you just need to walk away from the project for a time.  When you return it will be with fresh eyes and perspective.  It may take several days, weeks or months to get your bra to fit the way you want.  The more you need that bra, the more likely you'll keep trying new things until its right.

Difficulty

Bra making seems to have a reputation of being more difficult than regular sewing.  The best statement on this subject I have heard is this: if you can set in a sleeve (sewing a sleeve to the body of a shirt), you can sew a bra.   The physical act of sewing is not difficult - for most of us, it involves pressing a pedal and guiding fabric.  The time consuming part comes in with the fitting process as it is a bit of trial and error.

For the actual sewing: there are 3 types of stitches bras use - straight stitch, zig zag stitch and 3-step zig zag.  They are used to make the straight and curved seams you see in bras.  In terms of skill, most bra patterns utilize a 1/4" seam allowance (or 7mm).  For most people that means you are lining up the edge of the fabric to the edge of a sewing foot instead of a line on the throat plate.  Lots of pins may be involved (especially for curves). 

By far the *best* solution to tackling difficulties when bra sewing is a support network!  Friends who sew can be a great resource for basic skills.  Friends who sew bras (in person or online) can also be a great resource for bra specific issues.  Check out some of the bra making communities in Facebook such as: LilypaDesigns Pattern Group or Bra Making with LilypaDesigns.

Breast Anatomy in Relation to Fit

Check out the entire Consider Making your Own Bra Series

Part 1 - Cost, Time, Need and Difficulty

Part 3 - Choose a Bra Pattern

Part 4 - Alterations/Additions to Consider

As I debated what topics to cover for part 2, I decided to focus on the topics not often discussed.  There are numerous tutorials on bra construction [like this Video Sew-Along, Wireless Bra Sew-Along and Wired Bra Sew-Along] and bra fabrics [link HERE and HERE] on the internet.

For those considering bra making, the task of finding a bra pattern can be daunting.  There are more options now than ever before.  While those of us with bra making experience celebrate the choices, we understand it can be overwhelming for someone new.

However, before we can begin choosing a pattern, it may be prudent to discuss breast anatomy and how our very individual needs may shape our bra making experiences.  For those who already have a bra pattern, being familiar with your breast anatomy can be helpful in knowing what alterations to consider.

Breast Anatomy in Relation to Bra Fit

Overall Breast Shape

The overall breast shape would be the silhouette of the naked breast if you will.  While the volume of the breast between 2 women with D cups (with the same band) is the same, the way that fullness is distributed may be different.  One woman may be fuller in the center the other could be fuller on the bottom.  The easiest way to determine shape would be to lean over at a 90 degree angle (or whatever angle you can manage) in a mirror.  Does the breast:

• Look like a long "V" shape?

• Look like a tear drop shape?

• Look like a ski slope (when standing up)?

• Look like its about the same width and length?

• Look like there is more boob on top? On Bottom? In the Middle?

• **Note this method may not work well for someone with VERY soft tissue or pendulous breasts. Try supporting the naked breast from below.

Long tubular breasts (sometimes called bazooka or torpedo boobs) can indicate very projected breasts and may need more forward volume while maintaining the same wire and band. See our post about Projected and Omega Breasts. One popular option would be to increase the cup size to get the necessary depth then take in the sides. Another would be to split the bottom cups or if already split, to increase the curvature. Yet another is to split the upper cup and increase the curvature there.

Shallow shaped breasts (ski slope shaped) can indicate breasts that stay close to the chest and may need a projection reduction alteration while maintaining wire size.

A breast that projects MORE than the width (AKA Projected Breast) may have the odd sensation of a bra feeling both too big and too small at the same time. There may be wrinkles immediately above the wires while feeling a bit tight near the bust point.

Breast Crease

The breast crease or Inframammary Fold (IMF) is the fold where an underwire typically sits. Underwires come in different shapes, widths, curves and wire gauges to accommodate different shaped breast creases and breast densities. A few of the commonly used underwire types are daywear, vertical and plunge. There are also mono wires (single wire for both breasts), strapless wires (U-shape), over wires (above the breast), and flex wires (minimizer bras).

A common source of pain along the breast crease is a mis-match between the breast root crease shape and the underwire shape and/or size. In general, a narrow breast root needs a vertical wire and a wide breast root needs a daywear (regular). The ideal underwire will follow along the IMF - this produces the most comfort and support.

Breast Orientation

The bust point of the breast can point forward (like RTW assumes) or it can point outward or inward.  In general, the closer the bust points look in bra, the more youthful the breasts look.  A variety of methods can be used to make the bust point look more centered.  Built in Powerbars, Internal Slings and padded inserts are fairly common. 

********** This is meant as a general introduction to SOME breast anatomy terms that may affect fit and not a comprehensive list. **********

A few additional terms not covered here include: Inner Fullness, Breast Rotation and Torso Shape (which directly affect bra fit).

Also check out our Bra Maker’s Fit Challenges for fit issues that are harder to spot and fix.

Check out Part 3 in our series - where we discuss how to choose a pattern!

How to Choose a Bra Pattern

Check out the entire Consider Making your Own Bra Series

Part 1 - Cost, Time, Need and Difficulty

Part 2 - Breast Anatomy in Relation to Bra Fit

Part 4 - Alterations/Additions to Consider

How to Choose a Bra Pattern

Considerations for a Bra Sewing Novice.

• How much sewing experience one has

• Quality of Construction Directions that accompany the pattern

• Pattern size range

• Style of bra

Prior Sewing Experience

As mentioned in Part 1, the amount of prior sewing experience can make a difference in the time needed to sew a bra.  Someone with less experience may want to start with a wireless bra or bralette before diving into wired bra patterns.  By the same token, someone with more experience may also want to start with a wireless because it has (generally) has fewer parts and thus take less time.  Of course, there are also those who just enjoy a good challenge!  That said, NEED may supersede TIME and DIFFICULTY.  

I have heard several instances where someone stated their immediate need for a well fitting bra as they are down to 1-2 bras that remotely fit.  Such a situation can spurr someone to jump right into a wired bra pattern.  With a bit of moxy and lots of support, it can definitely be done!

Depending on your learning style and immediate need, you may want to sew up a beginner friendly project to build up some skills before diving into an underwired bra or strapless with lots of boning. Knickers/panties are a great way to get some experience working with stretch fabrics and elastics. You can even incorporate a bit of lace! Stretchy bralettes can offer a similar experience but know that MANY bralette styles don’t use elastics and so offer limited skill acquisition beyond stretch fabric exposure. If bralettes are your preferred style (particularly post pandemic!), look for options that have a separate cradle, separate cups, adjustable straps and hook & eye in the back. They provide a bit more support and have transferrable skills if and when an underwired bra is desired. In general, non-stretch fabrics are more supportive than stretch fabrics.

Those with immediate underwire bra needs or VERY busty (GG-KK cup range) may want to skip the smaller projects and jump straight into underwired bras. This is partially due to the limited number of patterns offering patterns in this size range but also the weight of the breast and the potential physical ramifications of going without a supportive bra for too long.

Construction Details

The quality of the instructions that accompany the pattern plays a bigger role than most people realize.  A poorly written set of directions read by a beginner can be enough to put them off bra making for a while! Consider it a barrier to entry.  Some patterns are better than others. 

For example, with Merckwaerdigh's patterns, they explicitly state which patterns are good for beginners and which are not.  Heed the warning. One of my patterns from Merckwaerdigh had instructions but ZERO pictures (save for the one indicating style).  It was clearly stated not for newbies.

The Watson by Cloth Habit and Classic Bra by Pin-Up Girls have great reviews partially due to their well written instructions with diagrams (the latter also has a Craftsy video!) - great for beginners and the more experienced alike.

Pattern Size Range

KNOW THIS: Your bra pattern size may NOT be your RTW bra size!  In the same sense that you may need a size SMALL at your favorite store but need a size 12 in a sewing pattern. Go by your measurements not your size.  

While on the topic of measuring, each pattern company has a different way of measuring! Luckily the companies tend to stick to the same method of measuring across their line of patterns.  In general, there are 4 methods [link HERE] that could potentially yield 4 different sizes!  That said, every bra pattern company I've come across (and I do not profess to even remotely know all companies that make bra patterns) DOES NOT use the method favored by most department stores/specialty stores and that ubiquitous chain lingerie store that focuses on "sexy".

Here's what that means.  If the bra pattern of choice's size range doesn't include your size (say 36F), do not fret.  Look for the patterns measurement chart and find your size ACCORDING TO THEIR MEASUREMENTS. If you are still outside their range, consider looking for the sister size (aim for large band, smaller cup).  Take the larger (equivalent volume) cup but your correct band size.  So a 36F => 38E => 40D. Yes, you will need to make adjustments - but that is the norm even if you were to find the exact size.

An aside about the different methods of measuring.  If the pattern size (using the recommended measuring method) yielded something DRASTICALLY different than your RTW (as in A cup vs your F cup), try a different method.  Say the Bottom Cup Method vs the Full Bust/Upper Bust Method.  Keeping in mind pattern designers are trying to cater to a broad range of sizes, the measurement method they choose may [only] work on MOST people.  For example, the Pin-Up Girls Classic uses Beverly Johnson's (The Fairy Bra Mother) favorite method: Full Bust/Upper Bust.  It works for a broad range of people but does NOT work well for those with "a very small ribcage or an athletic build" [link HERE] as stated by Beverly herself.  In my case, it gave me 38A when I wear a 32E.  If you are like me, try the Bottom Cup Depth version instead and use that size for the pattern.

Due to the relatively small community of bra makers and bra pattern companies, there have been reports of some pattern companies providing custom grading for someone *just* outside their range.  (*Just* as in 1-2 sister sizes.) Doesn't hurt to email and ask.

For those who are particularly endowed (larger than 48H or equivalent), you may need to consider copying a well-fitting bra, learning to draft a bra pattern yourself, have someone draft a pattern, or have a bra custom made for you. At the time of writing, there was only ONE bra pattern that covered this range (has since been taken down by designer for a revamp). It was for this reason that I released the Lanai Wireless Pattern in GG-KK (UK) cup sizing to cater to this overlooked market. I am unaware of any other bra pattern currently available in this size range.

Style of Bra

*******Refer to PART 2  for a quick guide of breast anatomy in terms of fit. Please keep in mind this is a short guide to help get one started on their bra making journey.  It is only meant to provide general introduction and by no means is this an exhaustive list of terms or patterns.  Recommendations are based on anecdotal experience, diagrams via designers website and are not a personal endorsement.  ********

BY ANATOMY

Shallow Breast - look for cups with vertical seams and/or triangular cups.  Bonus: the vertical seams make it easier do the shallow breast adjustment.  Consider the Watson by Cloth Habit, Jordy by Emerald Erin, Merckwaerdigh Mix 30, Madalynne x Simplicity 8229 and Fenway by Orange Lingerie, Pin-Up Girls Sweet Sixteen and 2025 by Hugo Quili (not in English but has construction videos - just turn on the English subtitles), Angie by B. Wear, Sew Comfy by Make Bra, Grace by Annie and Myras, Ruby by Pin-Up Girls, any pattern from Madalynne.

Omega Breast - look for cups with more projection and a narrower wire opening (or designed for vertical wires) - ideally with at least 2 piece lower cup.  The key is fitting the wire first. Consider the Lusamine, Labellum, or Lanai from our own line, California Dreaming by Porcelynne, Harriet by Cloth Habit, Shelley by Pin-Up Girls, Bravo Bra #2 by Bravo Bella

Tubular Breast - look for cups with more projection - ideally with at least 2 piece lower cup. Consider the Lusamine, Labellum, Lamina or Lanai from our own line, Shelley by Pin-Up Girls, Classic by Pin-Up Girls, Bravo Bra #2 by Bravo Bella, 2023 by Hugo Quili (not in English but has construction videos - just turn on the English subtitles).

Outward orientation (AKA apex points East/West) - look for bras with powerbars and/or internal slings. Depending on how full you are, you may also need something with more full coverage to prevent "falling out" when bending over.  Consider the Lusamine, Lotus, Lamina or Lanai from our own line, Shelley by Pin-Up Girls, Bravo Bra #2 by Bravo Bella, Marlborough by Orange Lingerie

Inward orientation (Apex points inward) - look for bras with a low center gore.  This can mean partial band bras, plunge bras or front close bra patterns.  Technically, any bra pattern could work if you're willing to shorten the bridge yourself. Consider the Linda by Pin-Up Girls, Sharon by Pin-Up Girls, Madalynne x Simplicity 8436, Fenway by Orange Lingerie

Tall Breast - look for bras with more "open" neckline instead of curving toward the body (when in profile view).  This includes balconette and vertical seamed bras. Bonus: the vertical seams make it easier to make neckline adjustments.  Also consider bras with a lace upper cup as they tend to have a bit more stretch to accommodate a tall breast. Any bra pattern with an upper cup can be adapted to have lace. Consider the Lotus, Labellum or Lanai from our own line, Pin-Up Girls Shelley, Harriet by Cloth Habit, Wings by Merckwaerdig, Diamante by Etoffe, Grace by Annie and Myras, and Angie by B. Wear

Short Breast - look for bras that are shorter similar to demi style. Depending on how short the breast root is, it is also possible to "simply" shorten the height of upper cup. As in draw on the muslin bra where you want the neckline to be and cut off the rest! Consider the 2022 and 2017 by Hugo Quili (not in English but has construction videos - just turn on the English subtitles), Cut Out by Merckwaerdigh

**Bonus**

Strapless bra patterns - Underwire Corselette by Ralph Pink, Esplanade by Orange Lingerie and Strapless Bra by Merckwaerdigh [Most of these have a very limited size range] and Diamond by Pin Up Girls.

Nursing bra patterns - Lotus, Lamina or Lanai from our own line, Maternity Bra by Ezi Sew, 2027 by Hugo Quili (not in English but has construction videos - just turn on the English subtitles), most wireless/bralette patterns (pull aside or add nursing clips)

By Bra Style

1. Patterns with powerbars - Great for Innerfull, Omega, projected, soft tissue

2. Patterns with multi-piece lower cup - Great for projected, soft tissue, Full on Bottom

3. Patterns with vertical seams - Great for shallow, short breasts

4. Patterns with lace upper cup - Great for Full on Top, Tall breasts

5. Patterns with partial bands - Great for those who are narrow set, Outerfull

6. Patterns with plunge necklines - Great for those who are narrow set, Outerfull

7. Patterns with triangular cups - Great for shallow and tall

Join our Facebook Group for a larger list of bra patterns.

Bra Alterations/Additions to Consider

Check out the entire Consider Making your Own Bra Series

Part 1 - Cost, Time, Need and Difficulty

Part 2 - Breast Anatomy in Relation to Bra Fit

Part 3 - Choose a Bra Pattern

The last section of my Consider Making your Own bra series is based on the inevitable bra alterations one needs to make.  Rather than repeat what others have already done so well [splitting lower cup LINK, creating a powerbar LINK, add volume to cup LINK etc], we are covering topics that are less aren't as openly discussed. 

A quick aside before we dive in. The physical action of sewing a bra isn’t difficult (mostly straight and zig zag stitches), it is the fitting that occurs after the that takes the most time. Sewing a bra that fits can take 3 tries or 12+ tries depending on the person. For this reason, we highly recommend making a fitting band (essentially a bra without the cups in the way to assess the wire and band fit which can also double as a quick bra to baste test cups on) and wash away thread (it will transform your sewing!). Please don’t use your fancy fabrics and laces on your first bra as chances are, it won’t fit.

Bra Alterations/Additions to consider

Some suggestions of different adjustments/additions for those who have fitting issues related to bra band rolls and saggy breasts.  These are optional alterations that may be considered AFTER successfully making a well fitting bra.

Extra Fluff Alterations (AKA rolls above/below the bra band)

This is a common problem for many women of all different sizes.  Contrary to what one might expect, this has less to do with fat percentage and more to due to with skin elasticity and one's comfort level.  

Thinner Band (under the cups) - If you have had the experience of the bra band rolling up under your wire, reducing the height of the band under the cups may resolve the issue. [link HERE]

Taller Side Wings (underarm area) - Increasing the height of the band at the side wings can help contain any extra, err, fluff under the arms as well as contain side boob for those who's breasts tend to point outward. 

Taller Back Band - Increasing the height of the back band can create a sleeker silhouette similar to shapewear.  The taller band can also provide additional support as well as accommodate 3, 4 or even 5 rows of hooks!  This is particularly effective when paired with a "U" shaped back (sometimes called "ballet" back).

Curving the band - Curve the bottom band up by removing some height near the underarm and taper it back down.  This addresses the issue some people experience where the band ends in a crease causing the bottom elastic to roll up.

Gothic Arch - Adding a Gothic Arch to the base of the center gore (bridge) can make the band more comfortable for those with tall protruding bellies. [link HERE]

Hybrid - Some sports bras have a hybrid of the Halo and Slings.  The Freya Sonic Moulded bra has a good example of this.  There are 2 separate overlapping slings - one at the top, one at the wire line - functionally similar to a full halo but less fabric hungry.