How to Choose A Size Set 

Our patterns use actual breast measurements (instead of chest circumference) for more accuracy and few muslins! For this reason, please use your measurements to determine size(s) instead of your RTW size.

There are 2 main questions we will address:

  • Which size set should I choose if I’m on the border?

  • What are the differences between the size sets?

Each of the size sets have at least a 2 size overlap for convenience but they are NOT identical as each size set was drafted for different breast shapes. Cup pattern pieces cannot be interchanged with the equivalent pattern piece in another size set without alteration.

  • The A-DD range in comparison was drafted for wider breast roots + less projection + wider center gore (3/4” or 20mm).

  • The DD-GG range was drafted for narrow breast roots + lots of projection + narrower center gore (3/8” or 10mm).

  • The GG-KK range was drafted for significant inner fullness with very rounded breast shape + even more projection + narrower center gore (3/8” or 10mm).

If you’ve tried our underwired bra patterns, you’ll find a smooth transition in terms of consistent sizing and fit. [Primer on Breast Shape HERE]

STEP 1

When in doubt, start with your actual measurements! If your HH (Horizontal Hemisphere) and BCD (Bottom Cup Depth) are anywhere on the chart for the size set in question, then the that’s the one you should use. Remember that your HH is your cup size and lengthening/shortening the band is straightforward enough for complete beginners. [Primer on how to measure HERE]. Also compare your breast root to the cradle size charts - the shapes are different as they are drafted for different breast roots. Learn how to adapt a cradle from one size set to another HERE.

STEP 2

In some cases, your measurement may span 2 different size sets. In this case, select based on breast SHAPE. If you have more inner fullness and/or projection you have, err on the side of the larger size set. It is much easier and intuitive to adjust the band (including the wireline) vs adjusting the shape of a 3D cup pattern.

 
 

As always, if altering bra patterns feel overwhelming right now, simply cut out your HH size for ALL pattern pieces for your muslin. Any modifications needed will become clear once the bra is on the body. There’s lots of great support, advice and encouragement in our Facebook Groups [LilypaDesigns Pattern Group]!

Don’t forget to check out our Sizing Suggestions if your measurements span multiple sizes.