TUTORIAL - Inner Fullness Adjustment for Momiji Bralette Pattern

Learn how to alter the Inner Fullness of a curved 3 piece bra cup with powerbar! While this tutorial is tailored for the Momiji Bralette, the methodology can be used for ANY bra pattern with similar seamlines. That said, this is ONE method of increasing/decreasing the inner fullness of the Momiji cups while utilizing the “Layers” option in Adobe Reader (FREE). For a primer using Layers in Adobe Reader, click [HERE]

Check out all our posts about Inner Fullness HERE.

The most common reason for an inner fullness adjustment is due to volume distribution mismatch. Simply put, the cup and breast may be a perfect match in volume but not where the breast tissue is distributed. The amount of inner fullness varies from person to person but in general, the more inner fullness, the less tissue near the underarm. For many, this means reducing the powerbar width. While there are many ways to do this, we will demonstrate the easier approach of simply using a smaller powerbar size.

Lets get started by removing the seam allowance from the pattern pieces.

STEP 1: Starting with the Lower Cup, increase the curve of the inner arc by drawing a new line between the bust point and cradle Then adjust the Upper Cup to match the new Lower Cup length. True seams and corners to ensure there are no odd divots.

STEP 2: Using a smaller Powerbar size (how many depends on the amount of inner fullness), adjust the upper and lower cup to match. Shorten the vertical height of the Upper cup and Lower Cup to match the smaller powerbar.

By using a smaller Powerbar size instead of removing dart ensures all the seams angles remain the same enabling one to skip the next step.

For those who also need a smaller cradle in addition to a smaller powerbar, the side seam may need to be realigned.

STEP 3: Re-align all 3 pattern pieces along the side seam and redraw the side seam. This may entail shifting the seam forward at the top or bottom for a steeper/shallower angle. True seams and corners then add seam allowance back on.