DARTS - Part 1 - How to Sew Giant Darts in Lingerie

Welcome to our Darts in Lingerie Series:

This is a 4 part series that will walk you through everything from how to sew giant curved darts in bras and lingerie but also how to adjust patterns and some basic understanding about the volume and (cone) shape implications specific to bra cups.

Part 1 - How to Sew Giant Curved Darts

Part 2 - Inner Fullness Adjustments for Darted Cups (Quick & Dirty)

Part 3 - Narrow Root Adjustment of a Darted Cup (Mysa Only)

Part 4 - How to Increase or Decrease Projection in a Darted Cup

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One of the hallmarks of lingerie sewing is how to address ALL the curves. These curves often come in seamed cups and panties but also in giant curved darts. While designed for our FREE Mysa Bralette, the same method can be adapted to other darted cups as well.

Here’s a quick primer on how to sew these massive darts.

Step 1 - Mark the point of the SEW line on the fabric pieces [blue dot].

Pin the curves together so the fold goes right to the point. Add one more pin past the point to ensure the fold doesn’t shift while sewing

Sew giant curved dart toward the point. We’ve used a standard overlock here to finish up the raw edges.

Step 2 - Starting with the open end, start sewing toward the point. Depending on your machine, you may need to use a narrow zig zag if the tension on your straight stitch isn’t fantastic. My vintage machines needed a 1 wide and 3 length stitch to make up for the fact the tension isn’t great.

As you’re sewing toward the point, shorten stitches about 1/2” (12mm) from the point. DO NOT backstitch. Leave the tail of the threads long and tie by hand.