Same Size Bra, Different Body
Woo! It’s been a whirlwind couple of weeks but I finally got these bra samples finished and photographed! Today's post analyzes the differences of the same size bra on different body types. Both bras are made using the Lanai Wireless Pattern.
The teal (Mineral Sentiments Lace) is a size 109 with BCD graded to 101 on a 32 band. This version features the cross cradle, lace straps, and internal sling for nursing. Cups were made with sheer cup lining and the cradle/wing lined in powernet.
The purple (Maroon Style Lace) is a size 109 with 101 BCD on a 32 band. This version has the standard cradle and removable cloth straps (via G-hooks). The cups/cradle were made with bra tulle and the back band in powernet.
A bit about the body forms before we dive in. One has a 38” underbust and the other has a 32” underbust. The teal bra has a few extenders in the back to fit the form. Both have a Horizontal Hemisphere of 9” and Bottom Cup Depth of 4”.
It is notable that the strap placement has shifted slightly. This is due to the stretchy nature of the cross cradle rather than difference in body type (form?). The strap shift seems to be more apparent in the smaller sizes than the large.
The difference in projection between the two forms is clear in these photos. Both bras have separation (no dreaded mono-boob here!) to varying degrees. If you followed my last post about having a center gore TALL ENOUGH to fully encompass the breast (link HERE), you can see the teal bra does not do this as the form has tall breast roots. [What is a Tall Breast Root? ]. This is the reason that the center gore of the teal bra sits a bit further out than the purple bra. On a real body, the neckline would likely cut into the softer breast tissue causing some quadding. A stretchy neckline would alleviate the quadding but also cause mono-boob (as would a lower neckline).
The cross cradle is a great option for those who have a bit of a belly, swell throughout the day, cannot wear a firm band, are pregnant or enjoy buffets. Combined with low-stretch fabric cups (like tulle or tricot at 7-10%), the Lanai can be a great alternate to stretchy bralettes and structured underwired bras. For a wireless bra to match the support of a wired bra, the standard cradle + minimal mechanical stretch (like sheer cup lining at 5%) works be best.
In the end, its all about comfort. Some people would be happy to trader a little mono-boob for a lower neckline. Others need separation and full coverage. Go with what works for your body.