Grading Between Dress Sizes

If your measurements fall between multiple sizes, you’re in the right place! This is very common and one of the wonderful things about sewing your own garments. You can grade between sizes to create something that is specific to your body.

To get started, circle your measurements on the size chart. You may need the High bust of one size, waist of another and hip of yet another! It’s a good idea to retake measurements before starting a new project. Some patterns, like our Kanon Bustier, use a TIGHT high bust measurement in addition to an under bust measurement.

To grade between sizes, you’ll basically draw a line between different points (size) on the pattern. Be sure that the seam lengths and seam corners still match up after the changes. Don’t forget to take a look at the finished garment measurements to see if grading is needed as some areas have more ease than others (ie. hips vs waist).

Sewing Patterns with Individual Cups (Bustier, strapless, etc)

The Under Bust Measurement determines base dress size. Adjust the High Bust, Waist and Hip measurement as necessary.

Start with the size that best matches the underbust then trace the “wireline” (Center Front and Side Front Bodice pieces) that matches the underbust. We highly recommend “tissue fitting” - ie. taping the pattern pieces together (with seam allowances removed) and holding it against the body to check the height of the bodice. Strapless cupped bodice styles should be about 1” (2.5cm) or less below the underarm crease. This maybe significantly taller than your standard bra and is necessary to maintain shape and support.

If you are using a store bought strapless bra instead of the Marei Strapless Pattern, use the Horizontal Hemisphere (HH) measurement of the BRA CUP instead of the body. Please remember that the cup shape of the dress pattern may not match the cup shape of the retail bra and may need to be adjusted accordingly.

All Other Sewing Patterns

The high bust measurement determines base dress size. Adjust the Under Bust, Waist and Hip measurement as necessary.