Bra Maker’s Fit Challenges
Do you still have fit problems after following bra fit advice from online bra making groups? Take a look at our Illustrated Fit Issues below to help you diagnose some less commonly discussed bra fit challenges. These fit corrections can be harder to spot and fix. This is not a comprehensive list and only meant as a visual guide to spark conversation. A number of these are covered in our Online Courses and can help you achieve a better fitting bra.
Breast Rotation
Inframammary Fold (IMF) AKA Breast Crease is rotated in a way so that the center gore shape remains the same but shorter at the front and taller at the underarm. Affects shape of the breast and how a bra sits when worn on the body.
Breast Root Shape
Inframammary Fold (IMF) AKA Breast Crease varies from person to person where two people of the same bra size may have very different breast root shapes. This is a directly related to breast root height and center gore shape.
Boob Hat
Cup volume may match breast volume but lacks projection and compresses the breast tissue. Can cause East/West facing breasts and/or mounding at the neckline and/or underarm curve.
Course(s): Projected Fit Issues, Inner Fullness Fit Issues
*Recommended Courses may vary depending on pattern used
Sad Face Boobies
Cups are rotated outwards causing the seams to slope downward. Often accompanied with a center gore that is taller than the underarm.
Course(s): Projected Fit Issues, Full Framed Wireless Bra, Advanced Torso Challenges
*Recommended Courses may vary depending on pattern used
Too Short Wires
Wires rotated outward within the channeling where the underarm area juts out at an odd angle sometimes poking the arm. Occurs most frequently with Plunge or Demi wires.
Confirm wire length against pattern pieces or if using a LilypaDesigns pattern, confirm with Cradle Chart.
Wire Too Wide
Wires wrap around the body instead of sitting in the breast crease (Inframammary Fold). Often accompanied with breast compression and/or mounding - even when the cup volume is correct.
Course(s): Projected Fit Issues, Common Fit Issues
*Recommended Courses may vary depending on pattern used
Wireline Woes
Wireline does not sit in your breast crease (Inframammary Fold) no matter how small or narrow the wire. Most often related to center gore and/or torso shape (ribcage).
Course(s): Advanced Torso Challenges
*Recommended Courses may vary depending on pattern used