TUTORIAL - How to Alter the Bottom Cup Depth of the Mysa Lounge Bralette
Learn how to alter the Bottom Cup Depth (vertical length) while keeping the Horizontal Hemisphere (horizontal length) of a darted bra cup! While this tutorial is tailored for the FREE Mysa Lounge Bralette, the methodology can be used for ANY bra pattern with a similar seamlines. That said, this is ONE method of increasing/decreasing the bottom cup depth (BCD) of the cups in detail and utilizing the “Layers” option in Adobe Reader (FREE). For a primer using Layers in Adobe Reader, click [HERE]
IIn our previous sample [HERE], Heidi’s measurements indicate:
Horizontal Hemisphere (HH) = size 14.9cm/5.9”
Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) = size 12.5cm/4.9”.
This means she needs the volume of the larger HH but a shorter BCD. We can accommodate that by reducing the BCD of the 14.9cm/5.9” to 12.5cm/4.9”. Begin by removing the seam allowance.
Larger Cup Size and Smaller BCD
Start by circling the corner of the smaller BCD and the corner of the larger size [blue]. Then draw a gently curved line connecting the two corners from the same pattern piece [red]. We want to maintain the width (Horizontal Hemisphere) while shortening the height (Bottom Cup Depth). If your adjusted pattern piece has the same width but is a little shorter, you’re done!
For the cradle, simply select a smaller size. Measure the “wireline” (cup/cradle seam) of the cup pattern piece and compare with the cradle pattern piece. Every 1/4” (6mm) is one size.
For the back wing, select the wing size group that matches your cradle. You may have to add a little height for the seams to match.
Smaller Cup Size and Larger BCD
Start by circling the corner of the larger BCD and the corner of the smaller size [blue]. Then draw a gently curved line connecting the two corners from the same pattern piece [red]. We want to maintain the width (Horizontal Hemisphere) while lengthening the height (Bottom Cup Depth). If your adjusted pattern piece has the same width but is a little taller, you’re done!
For the cradle, simply select a larger size. Measure the “wireline” (cup/cradle seam) of the cup pattern piece and compare with the cradle pattern piece. Every 1/4” (6mm) is one size.
For the back wing, select the wing size group that matches your cradle. You may have to trim off excess height for the seams to match.